HANDLING WOOLS WITH WETCLEANING

Wool is a protein fiber obtained from the fleece of the sheep. Other wool is obtained from the angora goat, camel and alpaca.

Angora which is obtained from the angora rabbit is classified as a fur fiber, although its characteristics are similar to wool.

Wool is characterized by scales. The softness of the wool is determined by many factors. This includes the animal it comes from, the breed of sheep and which part of the sheep the fibers are sheared from.

In manufacturing, wool fibers are carded to produce a yarn that mixes long and short fibers. This type of yarn is very soft. If the yarn is combed using only longer wool fibers, a worsted wool with a harder finish is produced.

Wool yarn which is loosely twisted is softer then yarns with a high twist.

Wools are also impregnated in manufacturing with a finish to give additional softness, hand and body.

Fine wools are not usually pre-shrunk since the pre-shrinkage treatment can give the wool a harsher feel and look. Lack of pre-shrinkage treatment does not mean wool cannot be wetcleaned.

When wools are improperly wetcleaned, extreme shrinkage can occur, causing felting and matting, which is not correctable.

All wools are subject to relaxation shrinkage which is shrinkage that is correctable in finishing.

Controlled condition for wetcleaning

Water temperature. The water temperature is critical for controlling shrinkage and giving the wool a proper feel, hand and look. When the water temperature is too cold or too hot, wool cannot be properly wetcleaned.

Cold water retards cleaning action and the softening agents do not impregnate the fiber.

Hot water increases the condition of excessive shrinkage and matting. Proper water temperature should be about 100°F, or body temperature.

Mechanical action. Wools do not have to be only soaked to obtain safe results in wetcleaning. Front-loader washing machines have settings with controlled mechanical action that is ideal for wools.

There is no safe cycle that can be used in a top loader home washing machine. The mechanical action generated by a top loader washing machine always causes shrinkage.

Detergent. The best detergent to use in order to add softness and control shrinkage is cationic in nature with an acid PH. The cationic detergent tends to stay with the wool and soften the fiber.

When the wool is impregnated with a softening agent there is less chance of shrinkage and matting.

Anionic detergents may clean better but leave the wool in a harsh condition that is susceptible to shrinkage. If, after wetcleaning, the wool is harsh and needs drycleaning to soften, you know that the wool has been cleaned with the wrong detergent.

PH. A neutral PH is 7. When the PH is above 7 it is said to be alkaline in nature. The greater the alkalinity of the water, the more chance wool has to shrink and discolor. Wool should be wetcleaned with a cationic detergent that has an acid PH.

Softening agent. Wools need a softening agent in the rinse water. The softening agent may be cationic or nonionic in nature. This adds to the soft finish necessary for a properly wetcleaned wool.

Drying. Wool does not have to be blocked on a hanger to dry or blocked flat on a towel.

A properly processed wool needs a little heat in drying to activate the softening agents left in the fabric. The dryer temperature should be set at 120°F and the wool tumbled for no more than three minutes. This activates the softening agents giving the wool the proper feel and look.

It is important to note that if the wool is tumbled for more than three minutes, it will drastically increase the incidence of shrinkage and matting.

Pre-spotting wools for wetcleaning

It is important when pre-spotting wools that the proper lubricants be used. If anionic lubricants are used for pre-spotting, there will be a breakdown of the lubricant when in contact with the cationic detergents used for wetcleaning.

Anionic and cationic products break down, forming rings and discolorations. You can use cationic or nonionic lubricants when pre-spotting. Nonionic lubricants are commonly used for penetration and removal of dryside stains.

The pre-spotting process that you would use is as follows.

Tannin stains

1. Flush.

2. Nonionic detergent.

3. Mechanical action.

4. Flush.

5. Acetic acid and nonionic detergent.

6. Mechanical action.

7. Flush.

The following chemicals should be tested:

8. Oxalic acid.

9. Heat.

10. Flush.

11. Rust remover.

12. Heat.

13. Flush.

14. Peroxide and ammonia.

15. Heat.

16. Wetclean.

Protein stains

1. Flush.

2. Ammonia plus nonionic detergent.

3. Mechanical action.

4. Flush.

5. Peroxide plus ammonia.

6. Heat.

7. Wetclean.

Dryside stains

1. Nonionic detergent.

2. Mechanical action.

3. Wetclean.