Manufacturers are now producing two different types of rust removers. The original rust remover was comprised of a diluted hydrofluoric acid. The new rust remover that is produced now is a compound of oxalic acid.
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Rust remover is not just for rust or iron oxide. It is effective on some tannin stains, dyes, inks and other oxidized stains.
Some stains may not be readily apparent as being rust. For example a customer can get a dark metallic stain on the front of a garment from a locket or pendant. Rust remover is effective for this type of staining.
It is important to know the characteristics of both rust removers for effective use. I have guided Cleaners Chemical in their oxalic acid formulation so that the rust remover can be utilized for tannin stains as well. It must be kept in mind that rust remover, as well as other chemicals, is accelerated by heat.
The following is a list of the companies that produce rust remover and the composition of their products.
Cleaners Chemical Corp. Rust Eradicator, oxalic acid.
Adco Rust and stain remover, hydrofluoric acid.
Kreussler Safe Deprit Professional Yellow, oxalic acid.
A.L. Wilson Fluoride Free Rustgo, oxalic acid.
A.L. Wilson Rustgo, hydrofluoric acid.
Laidlaw Rustaid, oxalic acid.
Rust remover (hydrofluoric acid)
This is the most effective chemical for removal of rust, metallic oxidation, some tannin stains and inks. It is also the most effective chemical when used with titanium sulphate.
Most cleaners are aware that testing before use is important since it can affect some dyes and is extremely hazardous on metallic fabrics, trimming and glass.
It should not contact the surface of the spotting board as it can mar the surface. This is the strongest acid on the spotting board and the safety of its use should be noted.
Hydrofluoric acid can cause severe chemical burns when handled incorrectly. Hydrofluoric acid should never be rubbed with your finger. If it contacts your skin, it should be thoroughly washed with soap and water.
Some rust removers may come with a neutralizer. The neutralizer is a strong alkali that neutralizes the last remaining traces of rust remover that may be left in the fabric. It is important to remove the rust remover from a fabric since rust remover can cause chemical burns to the wearer of the garment.
One of the problems with the neutralizer is that its strong alkalinity may produce a discoloration of its own. Ammonia can also neutralize rust remover, but may not be safe on some colors and fabrics.
I have conducted the following tests of rust remover.
Rust remover was applied to a fabric.
The area was flushed with a steam gun.
Result: The rust remover remained in the fabric.
The area was again thoroughly flushed with the steam gun.
Result: The rust remover remained in the fabric.
Neutral lubricant was used and the rust remover was flushed.
Result: A slight trace of rust remover remained.
A protein formula was used after rust remover was flushed.
Result: The rust remover was neutralized and removed from the fabric.
In conclusion, we can note that flushing with a steam gun does not remove rust remover.
Using neutralizer or ammonia will neutralize rust remover but can be hazardous to some colors and should be tested.
Common protein formulas were effective and should be considered as an alternative.
Rust remover (oxalic acid)
This rust remover is claimed by some manufacturers as being safe. It is safer than using hydrofluoric acid and safer to handle, but it is not entirely safe to dyes on fabrics. It must be tested before use on colored fabrics.
I have been teaching the use of oxalic acid for tannin stains for 35 years. Oxalic acid is the second acid used for tannin stains after using acetic acid or prepared tannin formula. It will remove many stains that prepared tannin formula and acetic acid will not. It also has a mild reducing action that is useful for many dyes. It is also effective for wine and berry stains. It is not effective when used with titanium sulphate.
Tannin stain removal
1. Flush.
2. Neutral lubricant.
3. Mechanical action.
4. Flush.
5. Tannin formula or acetic acid and neutral lubricant.
6. Mechanical action.
7. Flush.
8. Oxalic acid (test).
9. Heat.
10. Flush.
11. Hydrofluoric acid (test).
12. Flush.
13. Peroxide plus ammonia (test).
14. Heat.
15. Flush.
16. Mild Acid.
17. Flush.
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