SOFTENING AGENTS IN WETCLEANING

Softening agents are the final touch in achieving a properly wetcleaned fabric. The quest to do more and better wetcleaning requires that fabrics have good feel, hand and luster. Proper use of softening agents can achieve this and also make finishing easier.

In my wetcleaning sessions, I show students how the feel and hand of wool, silk and other fabrics can closely resemble fabrics that have been drycleaned. I have successfully used and tested most softening agents, including those manufactured by Laidlaw, Stamford, Metro Chem and others. These agents are highly effective when used properly. More recently I tested and successfully used a product Crinkle Free, manufactured and formulated by Cleaners Chemical Corp.

Remember, softening agents will enhance a fabric’s condition only if it has been properly wetcleaned using the right detergent, heat and mechanical action.

Softening agents are cationic products, which means that they have a positive electrical charge and an attraction to fabrics. Softening agents coat the yarn with a lubricating action making it soft and supple. The soft and supple condition gives the fabric the ability to relax and resist wrinkling.

The other property that softening agents have is to reduce static electricity. Static electricity occurs because fabrics rub together, creating friction and electrical charge. The lubricating agents in softening agents reduce friction and the fabrics ’ ability to produce this electrical charge.

Synthetic fabrics such as polyester and acrylic, as well as soft napped fabrics, are more apt to pick up an electrical charge.

Effect of softening agents on fabrics

Wool. The softening agent is an important ingredient for wetcleaning wool. Wool is a natural fabric with scales and a yarn structure that is similar to a telescope. Under certain conditions of heat, moisture and mechanical action, yarn draws up, causing shrinkage, matting, felting and stiffness.

The softening agent coats the yarn, giving the yarn softness. This causes the yarn to slip and slide, reducing the wool ’s ability to shrink, mat and felt.

The effectiveness of softening agents is especially important on soft textured wools and angoras. I can wetclean an angora garment and have results that are as soft and fluffy as if it were drycleaned.

Silk. The silk fabric has more luster and less wrinkling when softening agents are used. If you have wetcleaned a silk using no softening agent you will often get a dry and lusterless fabric. Softening agents add luster and also reduce wrinkling, making it easier to press.

Cotton. A cotton fabric will be softer and will be easier to press when softening agents are used. Softening agents should not be used on fabrics that require sizing.

Polyester. Softening agents reduce static electricity and give more luster to the fabric. It does not help much in reducing finishing.

Glued-on trimming. I would avoid softening agents when fabrics have glued on trimming. Softening agents often loosen the adhesive binder which holds the trimming.

Quilted fabrics. Softening agents should not be used on quilted fabrics. Softening agents tend to stay with the fabric, causing streaks and swales.

Pile fabric. The softening agents help give a softer pile fabric with additional luster.

How to use softening agents

Softening agents are not compatible with anionic detergents. They cancel out the cleaning action of these detergents.

Softening agents are used in the rinse cycle with warm water. Even if you use a detergent with a built-in softening agent, additional product should be added to the rinse cycle. They work best if they do not receive a second rinse.

After garments are wetcleaned with a softening agent, they need a drying cycle to activate the properties of the softening agent. The drying cycle also helps remove wrinkles from the fabric.

The drying cycle does not mean that the fabric is totally dry. They should be dried until 90 percent dry, which means that the seams are slightly damp.

On wools, the garments are dried no more than three minutes. A short drying cycle does not shrink the wool but simply activates the softening agent, making it more supple with better hand.

Simply hanging up garments after wetcleaning will result in a stiff and wrinkled condition.

Stretching shrunken wools

If wools have shrunk, they can often be stretched by soaking the garment for 15 minutes in warm water mixed with concentrated softening agent. The garment is then extracted and subjected to a short drying cycle (two minutes). Stretching can then be attempted. I have successfully used this technique in my analysis laboratory.